Enchanted Soudah: Nature in the clouds

“Ta’ali, ta’ali… come, come,” whispered Ahmed Hanash, as he crept closer to the endangered Nubian ibex brood perched atop clay-colored cliffs. These existing species are being restored to a protected area in the King Abdullah National Park of Soudah as part of a regeneration program to improve the biodiversity of the region.

A former traffic policeman in Riyadh, but a native of Soudah, Ahmed fell into conservation by chance. Growing up in a family with livestock, he learned to care for goats from childhood, feeding them and treating their wounds and fractures.

A few years ago, when his mother’s health worsened, Ahmed returned to his hometown. “I wasted two years doing other jobs. I have always loved nature and all living things,” said Ahmed. When an advertisement was published for the position of caretaker, Ahmed immediately applied and got the job.

“Ibex are intelligent and alert animals with the characteristics of a common goat, which I am very familiar with,” he said.

Dr. Jacky Judas, the conservationist in charge of the reforestation project, led me to an enclosure in the middle of the juniper forest, where the ibex are cared for. A four-meter fence keeps them safe—barbed wire fences prevent baboons from entering, while the base of the fence, reinforced with stone, prevents domestic dogs from breaking through.

Dressed in a camouflage vest with a leafy pattern and slim build, Ahmed carried a branch of hopbush, waving it as he walked towards the small herd hiding in the trees. Each goat came out of its hiding place, attracted by the smell of herbs. Ahmed rolled a wheelbarrow full of alfalfa and poured water into a plastic tub.

Dr. Judas told me that the animals were so used to Ahmed that they ate from his hands. Everyone else had to stay away.

Standing twelve yards behind, I watched an ibex with impressive, sword-shaped horns break away from the herd and walk confidently towards Ahmed. The buck stood up on its hind legs and placed its front hooves firmly on Ahmed’s chest while eating a leafy branch from his hand.

“Wallah, I swear to God, this is my true love,” said Ahmed, overflowing with happiness.

Fifteen ibex were moved to Red Rock in 2021 from the National Center for Wildlife’s captive breeding center at Al-Thumamah’s King Khalid Center for Wildlife Research, a desert desert 50 kilometers north of Riyadh. There were nine cubs born in captivity, as the ibex were acclimated to the local climate and vegetation under the watchful eye of the team.

Ahmed named each ibex based on his perception of each character’s characteristics, giving them names such as Reem, Rose, Maha, Marwa, and Shaden for the dolls, and Gafal, Wallan, Ghaith, Fazza, and Tamim for the dollars. Among the flock there is skittish and ignorant, and a natural leader. Ghaith means blessing of rain, Tamim means beautiful. “They know my voice when I call them,” said Ahmed, smiling.

Single and in his early thirties, Ahmed lives with his elderly parents in Soudah, taking care of their health. A keeper walks through the Red Rock area every day using radio telemetry that tracks the ibex’s movements and collects data from their collars, equipped with GPS, radio and satellite transmissions, as well as activity and mortality sensors.

The rocks rest on a pristine forest of juniper trees, where the nests of the weaver birds hang, but this was not always a good place. Dr. Judas told me that his work team removed more than 200 tons (180,000 kilograms) of solid waste, plastic, metal and concrete blocks from the site to prepare for the reintroduction of the animals. Crews also physically removed 220 tons (200,000 kilograms) of invasive species of cacti from the national park, access to which is now restricted to people and partially fenced off.

In February 2023, all ibex were released into the wild. Unfortunately, Ghaith, Wallan and Fazza died fighting during the mating season, losing to Tamim, their male rival. One ibex was poached and four fell to local predators. However, three females were able to give birth in the wild, which is an indication of the success of this project, according to Dr. Judas.

In the morning, as the sun’s rays hit the jagged rocks, Ahmed tracked the herd of ibex by raising his radio antennae and listening for the static waves and calls of the receiver. A mature female appeared on the horizon with a young ibex next to her. Ahmed took his binoculars. “This is Rose,” he said, pointing to a female with cubs. He began to worry, when he saw a troop of baboons creeping fearfully near the ibex on the hill beyond the horizon.

With a quick and decisive action, the baboons barked and jumped towards the ibex. Rose ran away, her child trailing behind, but the army quickly split into smaller groups, chasing the child, and surrounding it to separate it. Ahmed put down his radio and ran at breakneck speed towards the monkeys, yelling at them and forcing them to disperse. The child managed to escape unharmed and was reunited with his mother.

“Rose and I went through a lot together,” said Ahmed. He explained that Rose was the first female to give birth in the wild. A few weeks before giving birth, she got lost from the herd. Ahmed tracked her down for days to make sure she was safe. On the day of delivery, he stayed with her for hours protecting her from predators.

As the midday sun whitens the escarpment fields, Rose and her baby find a safe place to huddle and fall asleep. Rose’s collar no longer emits symptoms, but Ahmed insists on visual surveillance. “I’m looking for him every day until I find him and make sure he’s safe.” He memorized all of Rose’s favorite spots on the escarpment and the best times to follow her, especially in the morning.

Ahmed told me that his dream is to see many animals roaming the cliffs of Red Rock—a dream that Dr. Jacky Judas and other conservationists in the area. “There is harmony between me and the ibex, but it is in their nature to fear people. I feel very sad if something happens to them,” said Ahmed.

His devotion to the ibex is a testament to the power of human connection with nature. His unwavering commitment to safety and well-being is not only inspiring, but also essential to the success of the regeneration project. As the sun sinks below the horizon, casting long shadows in the western landscape, Ahmed stands tall, the guardian of these magnificent creatures. Her story is a beacon of hope, showing that with passion, perseverance, and a deep connection with the earth, it is possible to restore balance to the natural world.